Full Volume. Talking About Lashes.
Misconceptions in the lash extension industry 

Full Volume. Talking About Lashes.

Why We Don't Touch Up Other Artstis' Work

by Gini Dumers on 08/15/18

The answer is simple, we don't touch up other people's work, because it doesn't work! We cannot give them our best work if we are going into unsatisfactory lashes.

We often have people call wishing to have their eyelash extensions touched up that were originally applied at another salon. After doing this this for several years I finally decided to stop going behind artists from other salons.

Here’s why:

First, you never know what kind of lash mess is coming through the door. I realized that 95% of the time these clients would go to a salon where the products were cheap and the skill level and training of the technician was sub-par. The lashes were often stuck together with too much adhesive, too long and too thick for their natural lash to sustain it, and just a plain mess.

Then, I would go in and do what I I could manage to do during their appointment time. I'd spend time trying to fix the substandard lash extensions, and the end result didn’t make either of us happy. I wasn't able to give them the fabulous, comfortable, customized lashes that I can give to clients starting from scratch.

So I have learned the best way to wow clients who have gone somewhere else and not gotten great extensions, is to take off the old uncomfortable and unattractive lashes at no extra charge to then and start over with a fresh new full set with me.

Their reactions to their new set are priceless. Many say, “Oh my, I didn’t know they could look this good!” and “I can’t even feel them!”

Yes, that’s the way it should be. Beautiful, custom lashes that are weightless and feel like they are your own.

So, remember, if you've gotten extensions from another artist that you don't love, they've gotta come off and a new proper set needs to be applied. You'll be so glad you started over.

Make Up Tips for Extension Wearers

by Gini Dumers on 07/27/18

Make Up Tips for Extension Wearers

I had a client come in the other day and say, “I’m just so used to my extensions now, I wish I could get just a little more drama, I feel like no one notices my lashes.”

I was surprised by this considering she was already wearing a long Volume lash look. She has very deep set eyes so I correct this with a longer length and a design to bring her eyes forward. When I finish with her touch up I always think they look great.

After checking out, she used the vanity area to apply some makeup before she went on an errand. I noticed she applied a heavy dark shadow and liner on her upper and lower lids. Her lashes literally disappeared into the darkness of the makeup. You couldn’t see them at all!  All the correction from the lash extensions were gone and her eyes looked more sunken than ever. Oh no, I thought. It was all wrong! She needs to know.

So I collaborated with Rockstar MakeUp owner, Marie Leszczak, and here are our tips for you to make the most out of your fabulous lash extensions and create a younger, brighter look for yourself.

  1. Skip heavy, thick liner and dark shadows.

As we age, we need to stay away from “hard” and “heavy” looking make up. Thick black lines and too dark shadows will make us look old and tired. If you have a great lash stylist, she will do a correction with your extension design to make your eyes appear brighter and more awake. Dark liner and shadows will erase this correction. If you choose to line your eyes, keep it very thin and close to the base of the upper lid only or skip it altogether.

  1. Create a contrast to make your lashes pop.

This can be done quickly and easily with a light cream to powder shadow applied across the entire lid. It will make the dark lashes pop and will cover discoloration and blood vessels giving you a fresh, more awake look. My favorite product to use for this is a Mac paint pot, either in the color Soft Ochre (yellow based) or Painterly (neutral).

  1. Get a great concealer.

A good concealer can do wonders for the eye area. Choose a concealer specifically made for the under eye area. Concealers that are designed to cover pimples tend to look dry and tight under the eye which make it look older. A creamier formula works best for the delicate under eye area. Opt for something in a salmon color, this neutralizes dark circles. Going too light under the eye can look unnatural or grey.

  1. Lighten up your inner corners

This is one of my favorite tricks to add a little glamour to mature eyes. Apply a little pop of white shadow in your very inner corners. Makes you look bright eyed and bushy tailed. How to: with your finger apply to the inner corner a little base of NYX shadow pencil in the color Milk. On top of this, apply with a flat brush your favorite shimmery white shadow. My favorite is Mac vanilla.

  1. Don’t skip the eyebrows!

Great eyebrows and great lashes are a marriage made in heaven. Yet many of my clients sadly ignore their eyebrows. Thin and poorly shaped eye brows are very aging. Most women who have let their eyebrows go over the years don’t realize how a full brow can take at least 10 years off. Get them waxed and tinted or better yet get microblading for a low maintenance solution.

These are just a few tips to anti-age with your makeup. For more instruction and tips on the rest of your look join us for our upcoming free class, based on the book “How to Not Look Old” by Charla Krupp.

Does Your Stylist Do These Things

by Gini Dumers on 07/10/18

I had a panicked bride today who had gone to a big box chain to have her lashes done for her wedding. The reason she called me panicked was because after three days the lashes on one of her eyes were nearly gone. I hesitated because following sub par lash work is extremely difficult, but it was her wedding and she seemed like a very nice girl in a bad situation.

When she arrived I was struck by her gorgeous baby blue eyes. However, the lashes she had on were so badly styled they would the first thing to be noticed on her rather than the beauty of her eyes.  These awful lashes were just hanging there. What a shame!

Unfortunately,  time did not allow for full removal and a whole new set, which would have been my ideal for her.  So, instead, I placed the right lash map on her and went about furiously removing the inappropriately long lashes applied in the wrong places with the wrong curl and did the best I could to “fix” these lashes.  When she opened her eyes and her baby blues shined beautifully with the properly styled lashes for her eyes, accenting the gorgeous color and shape for her, she was thrilled!

So what did I do differently than her first stylist? Fist of all, I listened to what it was she wanted from her lashes. What she explained to me wasn’t anything close to what was on her eye. I’m always baffled by people that tell me they went here or there and the stylist just laid them on the table and started lashing.   Imagine if your hairstylist just started cutting and coloring without asking you what you wanted! Yikes!

As a good lash artist we can’t always do exactly what the client wants, because of limitations with a customers natural lashes,  but we can listen to them and their expectations and then meet somewhere in the middle and both client and stylist are happy with the outcome.

Second, I looked at her and assessed her unique features and created a custom design. I gave her lash extensions that were the correct length, curl and shape to make her amazing baby blues pop instead of the former lashes that overwhelmed her eyes with a bunch of thoughtlessly placed lashes. This takes skill and a little extra time but a great stylist will do this every single time.  Every. Single. Time.

Third, I followed a lash map meant for her. A lash map is a guide that insures symmetry, and proper length and curl placement.   I simply took the time to place and follow the map I decided would be best for her. This is so simple and yet very few artists do it.

So next time you are getting your touch up ask your artist what your map looks like, or how she decided on your design, curl and length used. If she doesn’t have a good thought out answer you are not getting the best possible lashes.

4 Things Your Lash Artist Wants You To Know

by Gini Dumers on 06/25/18

Lash artists love their clients, and we take great pride and care in giving the best possible lash application.  Most clients listen to and follow their aftercare instructions and are dedicated to doing their part to maintain their lashes. But, there are some things that make your lash stylist want to lose her mind!  It’s only frustrating because we want the best for your lashes.

  1. Be on time. 15 minutes in the lash world is huge. It equals more lashing time and more eyelash extensions for the client. Typically, we can apply about 4 extensions a minute. So 15 minutes’ equals 60 lashes! It also stresses out your stylist, who takes pride in her work.  Being rushed to produce great work is stressful.

  1. Come in with clean eyes and lashes (NO MAKEUP, NO EYE CRUSTIES) for your touch up.  When your lashes are dirty or have old make up or mascara on them, adhesion of the fresh eyelash extension is compromised and retention will not be good. When the majority of your lashes fall off by the time your next touch up rolls around, you and your stylist will not be happy. So wash your lashes extra well with your foaming cleanser and lash brush right before your appointment.   If you wait to clean them at your appointment, you lose valuable lashing time. See point number 1 again.

  1. Your lash appointment is a NO PHONE ZONE.  You would be surprised how many clients will keep their phone right next to them on the treatment table and then ask their stylist to answer it for them when it rings!  It’s impossible to attempt to look at your phone through eye pads and tape while the fumes from the uncured adhesive make your eyes water. Great extensions require a tremendous amount of focus on the part of the stylist and answering your phone is very distracting. Do yourself a favor and commit to relaxing during the treatment and turn your phone on silent and leave it in your purse.

  1. Clean lashes regularly and properly in between fills.  At iCandy we supply you with the tools you need to clean your eyelash extensions correctly as well as instructions written and oral. Why is it so important to clean your lashes? Because even if you don’t wear eye makeup, natural oils from your skin mix with shedding skin cells that will accumulate on your lash line. If not cleaned properly, you will start to get a greasy looking, yellowish film on your lash line. This “film,” if still present when you get your touch up, will interfere with the lash extension adhering seamlessly to the natural lash. Other gross effects of not cleaning your lashes include developing “blepharitis”, a fancy name for eyelid dandruff. This dandruff is also yummy food for lash mites. Grossed out yet? Some clients worry that if they touch their lashes too much they will fall off. This is not true. Once applied, lashes are adhered so well that only pulling them out would cause them to come off. Trust me, they are stuck on there very well and washing them will only help them stay longer.

So that’s it.  4 things you can do to be the best client ever and have gorgeous lashes, and a great relationship with your lash stylist.

Guest Blog! What is Microblading, and How Does It Differ From Other Permanent MakeUp Techniques

by Gini Dumers on 06/15/18

The first question most people ask me about microblading is, “What is the difference between microblading and permanent makeup”?  The answer is not quite that simple, as microblading is a FORM of permanent makeup, yet there are several major differences.

First, microblading is done by hand.  I use an individually wrapped, sterilized one-time use blade to create the illusion of real hair on the brows.  Interestingly enough, what we call a blade is actually a grouping of tiny fine needles that scratch the skin and then a pigment is inserted into the small cuts.   What we traditionally think of as permanent makeup is a technique done with a tattoo machine.

Secondly, the pigment is deposited deeper into the skin with a machine in traditional permanent makeup.  When microblading, the pigment is placed more superficially in the skin. By putting it more superficially, the pigment tends to last about a year before it needs a touch-up.  However, you are less likely to get blurry “blown-out” looking hair-strokes, or have it fade into an “off” color over time.

Both techniques are considered a tattoo by definition, which is the inserting of pigment into the skin.  Microblading is considered “semi-permanent” since it’s lifespan is shorter than that of a traditional tattoo.  

Microblading is fast becoming the option of choice for those looking to enhance or improve the look of their brows.  It takes about 2 hours and the brows have a very natural looking “fluff”. With permanent makeup done by machine, the desired outcome is a more “made-up” looking brow (so it actually looks like you have makeup on filling in the brow rather than the illusion of hair).

-Marie Leszczak
RockStar MakeUp, Owner and Operator